Ben Maguire has developed such a strong affection for Ho Chi Minh City—from its bustling streets to its delicious cuisine—that he playfully suggested writing a love letter to banh mi or marrying a bowl of pho just to remain in the city permanently.
In late February, the British freelance scribe dedicated a week to exploring Vietnam's bustling southern city spontaneously, with no set itinerary.
This method allowed him to stumble upon surprising finds ranging from concealed eateries and sidewalk hawkers to delightful gastronomic adventures. For him, Ho Chi Minh City emanated a vibrant vitality that transformed even a casual walk into an exciting exploration.
Even though he depended solely on Google searches and a handful of saved locations, he allowed the city to steer his adventure, welcoming unexpected moments as they came.
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Ben Maguire drinks an iced coffee as he explores the streets of Ho Chi Minh City. The photo is provided by Ben Maguire. |
The beginning of his journey commenced as soon as he arrived at Tan Son Nhat Airport, facing difficulties when trying to converse with a cab driver who only spoke Vietnamese.
Next, Central District 1 brought to mind New York, where motorcycles zipped through the roads in a bold but well-coordinated stream of traffic.
Maguire ventured out using ride-sharing motorcycles and also gave the newly opened metro a try. Perched at the rear of a motorcycle, he grasped what was meant by "structured disorder" when referring to HCMC’s streets. The rider navigated through the congested traffic with ease.
"I clung to my banh mi, shut my eyes, and atoned for all my previous missteps," Ben quipped, referring to the journey as a spontaneous roller coaster ride worthy of an additional gratuity.
Although the streets left an indelible mark, it was the culinary scene that lingered with Maguire. For him, HCMC seemed like heaven for those who adore good food.
I assigned myself the task of exploring the culinary scene in Saigon and succeeded in sampling all the dishes, including broken rice, banh mi, and so forth. hu tieu noodle soup," Maguire shared.
Following the food tour, he envisioned writing a love letter to banh mi and potentially marrying a bowl of pho simply to stay in Vietnam.
However, of all the meals, it was hu tieu The noodle soup that captured his heart. As he sat at a night-time street stall long after midnight, relishing a serving of the hearty, elastic, see-through noodles and observing the perpetually awake city, he was deeply affected.
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At night, Bui Vien Street is bustling with tourists. Photo courtesy of Ben Maguire. |
Maguire adjusted to Ho Chi Minh City’s vibrant night scene, often ending up at a beer stall. Perched on a scarlet plastic chair, his knees nearly brushing against his elbows, he would clink bottles with new Vietnamese companions, playfully remarking that the beverage was “as cold as an ex-partner’s heart.”
The thing that struck him the most about the city was its fluidity. One instant, he would be enjoying a cup of cold coffee in a narrow alleyway; the following moment, he found himself caught up in the throng at a bustling marketplace. Similar to numerous tourists before him, he ventured into the Ben Thanh Market. He went in as sightseer but exited with the sense that he had barely escaped from a grueling real-world version of The Hunger Games.
Each shopkeeper welcomed me with praises and sales tactics. It was unclear whether they were genuinely complimenting me or merely trying to negotiate, but in the end, I left with two scarves and a keepsake," he chuckled.
Despite the sleepless nights in his hotel room in District 1, he gained a deeper understanding of the city. The horns, engine sounds, and barks merged into a symphony where every motorcycle horn blared as distinctly as a trumpet within the bustling ensemble of urban existence.
After traveling around the globe, Maguire discovered genuine real-life heroes in HCMC. He referred to these individuals as the ones he observed on the streets of Saigon.
He marveled at a man juggling a fridge atop a motorcycle, a woman lugging five wicker baskets brimming with fruits, and a banh mi seller crafting sandwiches quicker than his mind could process.
When he queried a resident about how folks stayed composed amidst the city’s frenzied pace, she merely shrugged and advised him to let himself be carried along by events.
"Perhaps that's the key to life, which is why I adore this city," Maguire mused, expressing his feelings more as cultural appreciation rather than culture shock.
Following a seven-day stay in Ho Chi Minh City, Maguire said goodbye to his taxi driver with an embrace and vowed to come back soon.