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Boasting medieval ramparts, a grand cathedral, and winding lanes lined with half-timbered houses, York is a must-visit spot for enthusiasts of history.
However, despite throngs of enthusiastic children sporting horned helmets at the yearly Jorvik Viking Festival showcasing the event’s enduring appeal to tourists, that's not my motivation for visiting.
Yorkshire is progressively establishing itself as one of Britain's premier culinary destinations, and the The 2025 edition of the AA Restaurant Guide featured 73 establishments in North Yorkshire—more than any other region and significantly outnumbering Devon, which placed second with 58 entries.
Given this, my partner and I are set to explore York’s cuisine through a culinary journey, beginning with a guided stroll led by the editor of a food blog. York on a Fork , Ben Thorpe.
Following his departure from a 'dull' profession in financial services, Ben now organizes food tours throughout York, leading guests to visit nine of his preferred eateries—where they can enjoy a meal or a drink at each location.
If you want to experience the heartbeat of the culinary world in Yorkshire’s revered city, this is how you should go about it!
Our initial destination is Ippuku Tea House, conceived by the married couple Frankie and Tatsu Ozaki.
Hailing from Saltburn In North Yorkshire, Frankie is the younger sibling of two, and both have married Japanese men.
She’s currently dedicated to introducing the genuine flavors of Japan to Yorkshire, presenting a tofu rice dish complete with pickles and dumplings, complemented by a piping hot serving of freshly brewed Sencha tea, known for its vibrant, herbaceous notes.
Up next, Ben treats us to a small serving of 'fish and chip shop chips' at Drakes Fisheries. The dish features a luxuriously rich and impeccably crisp batter paired with addictive fries, demonstrating that frying with beef tallow outshines the use of vegetable oil typically favored further south.
Following a brief stroll, we arrive at The Shambles, York’s renowned thoroughfare and historic center for its meat industry—highlighted by the butcher's hooks that remain suspended over certain shopfronts.
Considering this legacy, it feels fitting to savor a smoked pork taco at Shambles Kitchen prior to visiting a recently opened patisserie and café established by Florian Poirot, the renowned pastry chef known for his exceptional macarons and chocolates which earned him significant acclaim after opening his initial store in Malton back in 2017.
Ben also introduces us to York’s role in Britain's gin resurgence through York Gin—a brand known for crafting a range of accolade-winning spirits that pay homage to local personalities—before leading us to visit another four places, one standout being Ambiente Tapas. This Spanish-themed eatery and sherry bar stands out thanks to its enthusiastic and amiable team members.
A recurring highlight during his tours is Love Cheese, an intimate and eccentric cheese store and bar known as 'the world's premier Speakcheesey'.
On another occasion, we indulge in 'Afternoon Cheese,' a playful twist on the classic British tradition. This features five artisanal cheeses arranged on a three-level platter overflowing with an assortment of cured meats, olives, cornichons, chutney, crackers, and fresh bread sourced directly from the nearby town of Haxby.
Every cheese is carefully selected by the highly informed shop owner, Jordan, who engages in friendly banter with customers as he offers personalized recommendations to meet their individual cheese requirements.
In addition to cheese, York also gained recognition for its chocolate, thanks to confectionery company Terry's, which originated in the city back in 1767. However, after an international acquisition led to a shift in operations, production was moved to France in 2005.
The Grade II-listed, formerly industrial structure owned by the company, which offers views of York Racecourse, stood vacant for several years prior to its conversion into upscale residential units.
Luckily for those who love good food, it has also become home to The Old Liquor Store , an establishment with Italian influence featuring a restaurant, bar, and wine shop managed by experienced restaurateur Ben Williams.
The head chef, Matt Leivers, was lured away from the Michelin-starred Star Inn at Harome, which makes it a must-visit destination for food enthusiasts exploring York.
Stopping by for supper, we revel in a spectacular array of beautifully plated meals that offer robust tastes with none of the pretentiousness or skimpy servings.
I've chosen the pan-seared seabass fillet served with rice noodles and Asian greens as my main dish.
However, what truly stands out is my dessert—a caramelized white chocolate panna cotta crowned with cookie crumbs and pieces of crunchy, zesty Granny Smith apple.
For demonstrating reinvention, The Old Liquor Store aptly represents a city where numerous structures exhibit evidence of having been adapted and reused throughout their extensive histories.
This is particularly evident in the Museum Gardens, where the remains of a Benedictine abbey and an ancient hospital share space with a Roman tower, a local church, and the neoclassical Yorkshire Museum.
Beneath the menacing gargoyles and majestic Gothic arches of York Minster lies the Undercroft, which exposes remnants of a Roman fortification along with an Anglo-Saxon burial ground, all situated near the Norman base upon which the present-day structure was built.
As you explore the city’s culinary scene, remember to allocate some time for hidden treasures such as All Saints' Church on North Street. This location boasts a 15th-century window depicting scenes from the end times, alongside intricately styled angels gazing down from the detailed hammer-beam ceiling.
York’s small-scale medieval layout makes the city quite pedestrian-friendly, especially when you make use of the shortcuts offered by its intricate network of concealed passageways called Snickelways.
And if you ever feel exhausted from all that walking, rest assured there will always be a place close by where you can grab something to eat!
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